The Best Little Festival in Oz

Google has reliably informed me that one definition of the word ‘Festival’ is:

1. An often regularly recurring program of cultural performances, exhibitions, or competitions

2. Revelry; conviviality

We are lucky enough to enjoy several outstanding festivals in Tropical North Queensland but the one which stands out to me in terms of ‘revelry and conviviality’ has to be the Wallaby Creek Festival.

This year will be the 11^th festival organized by an incredibly dedicated group of volunteers and held in the spectacular surroundings of Home Rule Rainforest Lodge in Rossville at the northern end of the Bloomfield Track.

The festivities will be held over 3 days from 28-30 September in 2012 and it’s no coincidence that this annual explosion of creativity in the rainforest takes place over the September school holidays. 

Wallaby Creek is a family friendly Festival in every sense of the word providing enough arts, crafts and music workshops to keep children engaged but also ensuring that there is a wide selection of live music, performance art, bush poetry and adults workshops to keep the big kids busy all weekend as well. The workshops are great places for the kids to make new friends in a relaxed and safe environment.

Market stalls, food stalls and a bar are dotted around the Festival site and two stages offer an eclectic mix of live music showcasing a mix of local bands and Festival favorites from far and wide.

Camping at Home Rule is included in the price of the tickets and the lush rainforest hides safe swimming in Wallaby Creek as well as a beautiful hike up to Home Rule Falls for those who wish to experience both the natural surroundings as well as the cultural highlights over the weekend.

It is probably this close connection to nature that makes the atmosphere of the Festival so ….. natural. This is not a weekend for airs and graces or contrived nuances it’s the time for everyone whether young or old to just be yourself, cut loose, make new friends and have a damned good party.

See you there!

The full  2012 program can be seen here - http://www.wallabycreekfestival.org.au

Priceless Aboriginal Rock Art in Laura

I recently read an article about a five year old child who was opening an art exhibition in New York. Apparently her artwork is ‘abstract expressionist and surrealist’ and people pay thousands of dollars to own her pieces. Good on her and her parents but it does make me wonder about how art is presented and perceived. 

I first visited the Split Rock Aboriginal rock art gallery just outside Laura on a self guided walk. This is incredibly beautiful country and the simplistic paintings seemed to blend seamlessly into the sandstone escarpment. There are information plaques indicating what I was looking at but I was somewhat mystified as to why the extensive collection of Quinkan rock art galleries around Laura have been hailed as among the top ten most significant rock art sites in the world by UNESCO. Admittedly the artists would not have had an extensive selection of painting materials and tools many thousands of years ago but the images were just not speaking to me.

Recognising that perhaps I verge on the side of the philistine where art is concerned it was recommended that I stop being a cheapskate and pay for a guided tour of the Quinkan rock art galleries, then I would enhance my appreciation of the rock art. Fair point as it turned out.
I booked a guided tour of the Mushroom Rock Gallery and the Giant Horse Gallery from the Quinkan Regional and Cultural Centre in Laura and the experience could not be more different from my self guided look at Split Rock. Without an understanding of the relationship between the images, the country, the flora and fauna, the people and the spirits it is impossible to relate to what you are looking at. Listening to your guide explaining the storylines behind the images in the jaw droppingly stunning surroundings of the Giant Horse Gallery was an extremely enlightening experience and I finally ‘got’ why this artwork is so special.
The images had found their voice.

So I would urge anyone visiting Laura to make your first stop the Quinkan and Regional Cultural Centre to gain an insight into Aboriginal Culture, then book one of several tours to the nearby rock art galleries – without the guides the whole experience is completely diminished. In fact with my new found appreciation of art I may even now elevate myself above the level of the philistine.
However I still wouldn’t pay fifteen grand for a scribble by a five year old.
Contact the Quinkan Regional and Cultural Centre for more info on 07 4060 3457

www.quinkancc.com.au
 
For more info - www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/history/aboriginal-rock-art 

So why is it called Grassy Hill …..?

 

Grassy Hill is a must-see destination in Cooktown with stunning views, particularly at sundown when the serpentine bends of the Endeavour River reflect the sunset.

However on 19 June 1770 Captain James Cook obviously did not share this opinion as he wrote in his journal:

 “This afternoon I went upon one of the highest hills over the harbour from which I had a perfect view of the inlet or river and adjacent country which afforded a very indifferent prospect…”

Admittedly he was trying to plot a course of escape after holing his ship the HMB Endeavour on the Great Barrier Reef south of Cooktown, so his lack of appreciation of the stunning views is perhaps understandable.

Before the redevelopment ...

Fast forward to 2012 and although those in favour of a brisk walk can travel by foot to the top of the hill if you so desire, a newly laid bitumen road to the top provides an easier option by car. Although now quite heavily forested, Grassy Hill is so known because local aboriginals used to deliberately burn the forest on the hill to encourage re-growth of vegetation and draw animals to the area for hunting.

In 2011 a redevelopment project of Cooktown’s premier viewpoint has led to improved access, new amenity areas and additional interpretive information for both tourists and residents. Look out for the personalised paving stones lining the disabled ramp access which were a fundraising initiative for the Cooktown Kindy.
The final stages of the redevelopment are nearing completion with a public arts project in the production phase and no doubt a fitting launch party for Cooktown’s favourite landmark will be coming soon.

On a full moon climb to the top of the hill and you will witness the remarkable spectacle of seeing the sun setting and full moon rising – a sight that may even have brought a smile to the lips of the grumpy Captain Cook.
For more information - http://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/go/cooktown/grassy-hill

 

An Epic Road Trip

Any discussion about the ultimate road trip in Australia will eventually include Cape York and the more beers consumed then the more corrugations, the deeper the river crossings, the larger the barramundi and the thicker the bull dust becomes.

But what defines the ultimate road trip and does Cape York really live up to it’s reputation?

There must be a worthy beginning to the trip and to be fair Cape York starts off with a bang. Dive the Great Barrier Reef or hike through the Daintree rainforest before driving up the spectacular Bloomfield Track and you know you have entered a special part of the world.

Take in the pioneering history of Cooktown, connect with different cultures, test your tastebuds, smell new scents, catch a fish for dinner, and witness the raw natural beauty as you head north as far as the road will go.

Escape from your comfort zone, experience novel sleeping arrangements, tackle the off road 4x4 tracks, rejuvenate in the most incredible natural swimming holes under cascading waterfalls and learn to expect the unexpected. And at the end of the day as you sip a beer under the night sky breathe the fresh air of freedom.

By the time you near the northernmost Tip of Australia you realize this is more than a road trip, it has become a pilgrimage to the final destination. The end of this journey is as startling as the beginning and standing next to the most famous sign in Australia inspires a sense of achievement which fuels the bragging stories of the future. 

So are the stories about Cape York all bull? Of course not so head north for the trip of a lifetime and discover for yourself the magic of Cape York Peninsula.

For more travel info on Cape York see www.cooktownandcapeyork.com

Captains, Costumes and Cavalcades

For over fifty years the residents of Cooktown have celebrated the landing of Captain Cook on the banks of the Endeavour River in 1770 with an explosion of festivities on the Queen’s birthday weekend.

For many years the Cooktown Discovery Festival held legendary status as one of Australia’s longest and wildest parties with a re-enactment of Cook’s landing playing second fiddle to the serious business of the drinking games and events organized by the town’s pubs.

Nowadays the Festival is a more family friendly affair and the fully costumed re-enactment has been transformed into a fun performance telling the story of the plight of the HMB Endeavour from both an Aboriginal and European perspective. The warm fuzzy feeling generated from watching the actors, and sitting on the same ground that the first reconciliation between the two cultures took place, resonates throughout the weekend.

Of course it wouldn’t be the same Festival without the weird, wonderful and quirky and the 2012 program of events promises plenty of choice. Billy kart races or cane toad races, a grand parade or an obstacle course, movies in the park or a film festival, poets, thesps and live bands, marines with muskets and exploding cannons, belly dancers or Morris dancers, convicts at large and wanton wenches, an Aboriginal corroboree and fireworks – the list goes on. 

So come and experience a blast from the past at the Cooktown Discovery Festival from June 8- 11, discover your history and live for today.

For the full 2012 program and more info -

http://www.cooktowndiscoveryfestival.com.au/ 

Cooktown and Cape York: An Innocent Assault by a Masked Avenger

Cooktown and Cape York: An Innocent Assault by a Masked Avenger: I was attacked on my walk to work this week. I was aware of my assailant who was masked and proudly strutting as part of a pair of obviou...

An Innocent Assault by a Masked Avenger

I was attacked on my walk to work this week. I was aware of my assailant who was masked and proudly strutting as part of a pair of obviously disturbed youths. I tried to avoid eye contact but this did not help. I changed my direction to avoid their personal space but to no avail – the first attack was direct and purposeful aiming for my head, my innocent but provocative actions had obviously pushed them over the edge.

I should have known better really as there are many similar gangs in Cooktown who defend their space without hesitation, it’s just a natural reaction to being born a masked lapwing (also known as the spur-winged plover). The Guugu Yimithirr people call the spur-wing plover Milgaandurr and it is known as the alarm bird. It is a friendly messenger, bringing tidings of births and deaths within families.

To be fair I reckon he or she was bluffing and it was just a warning attack as the swoop over my head only required an instinctive duck not the embarrassment of a prostration on the ground. As a ground nesting bird they are only protecting their nests and they usually produce two chicks which is when they are at their most aggressive. They can also use cunning diversionary tactics to protect their chicks including defending ‘fake’ nests and somewhat amusing distraction tactics like hopping around on one leg to divert attention away from their nest.

It is easy for the unsuspecting passerby to inadvertently impose on a nest, so if you are walking along or mowing the grass and see an agitated plover try to give them a bit of respect.

And if you do come under attack just hope that no one else is watching you make a spectacle of yourself.

Find out more about the Guugu Yimithirr culture HERE

Wet, Clean and Green!

Wet, Clean and Green!

If you live in the tropics you expect a bit of rainfall at this time of the year and can appreciate the revitalization that the seasonal cycle brings to the environment.

Forgotten flowers reappear like long lost friends, new bird calls add to the morning chorus, the insects seem louder and nature just seems to have an extra spring in it’s step.

The most noticeable aspect is the lush green vegetation sprouting all around which makes you stop and think about the massive diversity of plants living on your doorstep  – easy to take for granted in the dry months. 

The best way to see the weird and wonderful species surrounding us is to take a hike in the rainforest – sure you get wet but wow what an experience at this time of year, you can almost see the growth happening before your eyes and it feels like you can taste the smells - a real assault on the senses.

There’s some great walks around Cooktown including through the Botanic Gardens or head out towards Helenvale, Rossville and Bloomfield for an incredible rainforest experience. Stay at Mungumby Lodge or Lion's Den Hotel in Helenvale or further down the Bloomfield Track near Bloomfield camp at Haley's Cabins.

The waterfalls are also in majestic form at this time of year. We are spoilt for choice with stunning cascades in the vicinity, take a guided tour with the Walker family at Bloomfield Falls, hike up to the remote Home Rule Falls (but be careful when the track is slippery), discover the locals’ favorite at Trevethan Falls or head out to Endeavour Falls on the road to Hope Vale.

So don’t be blue, be green and enjoy the amazing forces of nature in our tropical wonderland.

Have a look at www.cooktownandcapeyork.com for ideas on accommodation, tours and attractions in the Cooktown region

Family Fishing in Cooktown

How long were the school holidays?! Thankfully we were blessed with the most glorious weather in Cooktown so the kids could get outside and expend their endless energy.

Numerous wharfies indicated that the entire population of Cooktown was out on the water which triggered an impressive ‘let’s go fishing’ campaign from my sons. It didn’t really take much to loosen my resolve so I finally caved in and agreed to a fishing trip. Great concept hampered by completely useless knowledge of the sport.

Enter Mollo of Cooktown Dinghy Hire who kindly offered to take us out on one of his family friendly fishing and glass bottom boat trips. Having two energetic boys of his own, Mollo not only knows where to find the fish but also can judge the attention span of the kids so we moved around the harbour whenever attention spans waned stopping at different spots.

Whilst the adults kept a steady flow of baited hooks coming the boys leapt around the boat looking for the perfect spot and ended up pulling in a healthy collection of queenies, garfish, marks, pufferfish, mangrove jack and an excellent cod. Shame about the one that got away – whatever snapped Mollo’s line was probably best not to be on the end of one of the kids lines!

Happy with our catch (all of which was released) we then motored off around the headland to Cherry Tree Bay and Finch Bay and the kids glued their faces to the glass bottom pointing out the corals, fish and even a turtle. 

Satisfying the children on holiday is no easy task so if you want a family friendly fishing trip under expert local guidance this is really pretty hard to beat for a morning’s entertainment.

http://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/tours/local-tours/cooktowndinghyhire

The (low gear) Road to Heaven

One of the best things about living in Cooktown is the many different environments to explore right on our doorstep and one of these is Mount Dickson.

The road up the escarpment to Alkoomie Station is a 4WD adventure in itself – “I’m too young to die” was the cry from the back seat – but if you think your car may not make it call ahead and the owners will come down and drive you up to the top.

The views from the homestead looking over the Endeavour Valley to Cooktown and the Coral sea are genuinely breathtaking – however playing footy on the edge of the escarpment is not advised as it’s a long way down to fetch the ball.

Alkoomie is a natural playground and hosts Merilyn and Alan personify true Aussie outback hospitality even down to cooking their guests dinner on a campfire under the stars.

With animals strolling near the homestead you are very aware that this is a working cattle station and guests have the option to go out on a cattle muster however our kids contented themselves with patting the horses and tormenting the chickens.

I have a policy of only sitting on a moving object with an engine attached so declined the offer of a horse riding safari and we spent the day on foot exploring the escarpment and swimming under waterfalls in the stunning natural swimming pools.

What a beautiful day – pristine bush, the chatter of birds, butterflies flitting around our heads, wallabies watching us watching them, constant children’s laughter and those incredible views.

The homestead offers comfortable accommodation and has a fully equipped kitchen, and there’s an annexe which can accommodate a gang of kids so this is a great venue to celebrate special occasions with a group of friends. Further along the escarpment are more basic safari tents again with views to die for.

Words cannot describe what the eye can see but if you enjoy the outdoors and want an adventurous getaway with warm outback hospitality I can guarantee this will be a destination that you find hard to leave.

(But when you do drag yourself away make sure you engage low gear!)

http://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/stay/cooktown/accom/alkoomie

Hog Hunting in Cooktown, FNQ

When you arrive in Cooktown, it is hard not to miss the number of ute's and trucks driving around with big cages on the back filled with large hunting dogs.  Pig hunting and the dogs associated with it is a big thing up here and good hunting dogs are coveted and their breeding lines carefully managed. In the newsagent you will find at least 8 magazine titles for Pig Hunting with names like Boars and Babes, Pig Hunting weekly and Boar it up Ya.

First lets get this out in the open - Pig hunting is a necessary activity in Far North Queensland. There are feral pigs everywhere and they increase in numbers at an alarming rate.  They destroy the countryside and eat the natural vegetation of the wildlife.  Not everyone agrees with it and many question the method of dispatch where the dogs hold the pig until the hunter can get there with his knife. This is what makes the 'sport' and where the abillities of the pig-dogs come into play.

Three years ago some of the locals who enjoy this sport decided to make an event of it and allow those that already eradicate wild pigs to enjoy a competition in doing so. This year over 34 teams entered the Cooktown Hog Hunt, heading out on the Friday afternoon to return dirty, smelly and exhausted with more than 5 tonnes of dead pig for the weigh in on Sunday lunchtime.


So far the Cooktown Hog Hunt has put away (that means killed and buried) 14 tonnes of feral pig from the in three years. That's a good amount of dead pig and we hope this helps control this feral pest as well as providing the men from the stations and bush around these parts enjoy a little bit of competition and a get together at the end of the weekend.

Cooktown Races

It has been over two years since Cooktown held her annual Amateur Race meeting at the pretty race track that sits at the foot of Mt Cook. Last year there was some problem with dates and finding country meet horses to race. Normally held in July which provides a cooler day, there was no stopping most of the town from fronting up in their fascinators, frocks and akubra's for a stunning spring day.

In usual Cooktown style, the women outshone the men and the standard of dress was just amazing. The line up of local ladies in the Fashions on the Field attests to either not having enough opportunities to dress up or to just stunning good taste. Local lady Bronwyn had created many of the fascinators walking the course and it was great to see so many people had made the effort. That included the kids as there were a number of young girls dressed up and hoping to enter a young fashions section. Maybe next year.
After the five races and some great horse power bounding up the track, it was time for the humans to show their mettle with a 100 metres dash. And all that before the sun went down and the stayers settled in for a night of entertainment from the local band Rough and Ready. There might be a few sore heads around town today but it was a great weekend and lets hope we don't have to wait another two years before getting that fascinator out of the cupboard.

Sun, sweat and sand - the Croc Trophy

Crossing the Isabella Creek

The infamous Croc Trophy Mountain Bike Ride finished its 10 days of gruelling competition in Hope Vale and Cooktown on Thursday 27th October. Slated as the Hardest, Longest and most Adventurous Mountain Bike race in the World, it is organised by Austrian, Gerhard and his team. The Croc trophy has been competing in the Far North for 17 years but this was the first year they finished in Cooktown, having ridden across much of Cook Shire's rugged landscape.

After months of glorious sunshine, the Far North suddenly dumped a record breaking amount of rain over a week - just as the Croc Trophy riders were ready to leave Cairns. The first three days of the competition were muddy and difficult, resulting in swift changes to the route. Luckily the rain stopped and as the riders headed into Cook Shire the freshly washed countryside glistened green and the dust wasn't as bad as it could have been.

The country from Laura to Kalpower to Munberra and into Hope Vale is stunning and remote - these are traditional lands belonging to local Aboriginal Traditional owners and they use them for personal fishing and pig hunting mainly. There are a few shacks but certainly no amenities - just beautiful raw Australian bush.  Bush fires can rage at this time of year as the traditional burns take place before the wet to allow for timely germination of the plants and the riders kept a watch out as smoke rose to the north of their route.

Talking to some of the teams from Melbourne, Sydney and New Zealand, I was intrigued by the fact that they had seen very little of the wildlife during their ride. No snakes or crocs - just a few bewildered cattle watching as they sped past. The support team numbered several 4wd's and many trucks that drove ahead each day to set up camp for the exhausted riders.  Water was important to carry as most of the rivers out here are home to both saltwater and freshwater crocs.

When the riders finally arrived in Hope Vale on the morning of the 27th October they were met by a glistening swimming pool which was a welcome site at the end of more than 1200 kms of mud and dust.

And you know the funny thing was that the 'Croc Trophy' awarded, was actually a wooden boomerang with an engraved plaque glued onto it. I would have thought that after all those miles and all that hardship, something with a bit more bite could have been handed out!

Winner - Jeroen Boelen, Nederlands

Sundays in Cooktown - Cape Bedford

Despite the terrifying weather warnings being splashed across the TV last weekend, and a deluge south of Cooktown, we were in the mood for a trip. Looking directly west from our verandah it looked promising so we thought we would risk it and head North of Cooktown to Cape Bedford.

We were blessed with the most glorious day as we drove over the white sand dunes to Elim Beach at Cape Bedford.  A beautiful beach, it sits at the southern end of the beach leading to Cape Flattery where silica is mined.  No-one else was around except for a tinny out in the bay doing a bit of fishing. After a sandwich and wander on the beach we too tried a bit of fishing off the shore while watching a hermit crab wander by.

Then we drove over more sand dunes to another one of the Cape Bedford beaches and again, apart from a few locals fishing, there was no-one around. In the distance we could see the elegant Mount Cook and the kids explored the beach for driftwood, sea shells and other things washed up by the sea.  It is still a magical thing to wander along a beautiful beach and find perfect Nautilus shells.

At the northern end of the beach was the site of the first Lutheran mission in the Cape Bedford area and we were shown the basic cave where the German Lutheran minister, known as Muni, lived for some years.  We met some friends and watched them bring in lots of trevally and perch.  The dog discovered the vagaries of swimming in the shallows when he came across a large mudcrab with very fast pincers!  Homeward bound sun kissed, tired and happy.

Cooktown - we are open for business!

Cooktown was one of the lucky Far North Queensland towns spared by Cyclone Yasi. It is also one of the most picturesque towns in Queensland, sitting at the foot of Mt Cook and overlooking the magnificent Endeavour River. 

Despite the fact that this is known as the ‘wet season’, Cooktown has a lot to offer and is open for business. The crystal creeks are full of fish, the birds are in abundance and you may even be lucky enough to spot the elusive Bennett’s Tree Kangaroo in its natural habitat.  With the Barramundi season open again, those with a passion for fishing will find Cooktown a wonderful place to ‘bag a barra’.

Cooktown provides something for everyone including a unique history that began in 1770 with Cook’s arrival and expanded 100 years later with the Palmer river gold rush. There are museums, traditional old pubs and an Historical society that houses a fascinating display from the early days. There are the exquisite Cooktown Botanical Gardens, home to the Cooktown Orchid, beaches, waterfalls and magnificent bushwalking trails.

For the adventurous there are fishing trips up rivers, a chance of croc spotting or visit some original Aboriginal rock art sites. Or simply relax, sit back and watch the sunset over the Endeavour River from Grassy Hill.

Come and explore the beauty of Cooktown, only 4 hrs from Cairns by car or 45 mins by plane. For more information go to www.cooktownandcapeyork.com or call the Visitor Information Centre 1800 174 895.